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FASCIA MOUNT GLASS AND PICKET

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TOOLS REQUIRED

  • 10” Electric Miter Saw (40+ tooth carbide tipped blade)
  • Electric Variable Speed Drill (suggested 500 Watt, 800-2000 RPM)
  • 9 or 12 Volt Cordless Drill
  • Channel Locks Concrete Drill Bit 5/16” (if applicable)
  • Ear Protection
  • Framing Square
  • Hammer Drill (for concrete applications)
  • Installation Kit (included in your package):
    • Drill Bits: 7/64”, 5/32”, and 11/64”
    • t;Square Drive Bits: #3 x 6” and #2 x 6”

    • Rail Clip Jig (rest of text on opposite side of page)
  • Level
  • Rubber Mallet (non-marking)
  • Pencil
  • Power Cords
  • 2 Quick Grip Clamps (for stair installation)
  • Safety Glasses
  • String Line
  • Tape Measure
  • Tin Snips

 

REVIEW THE POST LAYOUT DRAWING

You will receive a Post Layout Drawing with your package. It is your “blueprint” for installing your railing system. The drawing gives a bird’s-eye view of your deck as provided to our estimating department. It lists the dimension of each run, the posts to be used and their placement, any sleeves to be used and their angles, where glass panels and/or pickets are to be installed, and the location of any stairs and/or gates.

The Rail Usage Chart (located on the right side of the drawing) lists each actual run on your deck and the corresponding railing pieces provided to fit that run (top and bottom rail are provided in stock sizes and must be cut in the field to fit your specific application). To maximize usage, more than one cut may be made out of a single piece of provided rail. Refer to your Post Layout Drawing before cutting any top or bottom rail to ensure that you are using the product as estimated. Failure to do so may affect your ability to complete the project with the material provided.

 

POST BLOCKING

Western ClearView Railing Systems require the post base screws to anchor into at least 3” of solid wood framing. Blocking is not provided with your system, but may be necessary to meet this requirement. Use the Post Layout Drawing to determine the location of the post bases; install blocking (if necessary) using two horizontal layers of 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 structural grade lumber between the joists. Attach the blocking to the joists with a minimum of 3-16d galvanized framing nails on both sides of the block.

 

CHECK MATERIALS

The fascia mount application uses a variety of specialized posts in order to be mounted on the outside of the deck. Please check your railing package carefully along with your Post Layout Drawing to ensure that you have all of the proper parts to complete your railing system.

View Parts

 

DEALING WITH HUMPS OR SAGS

Attach a string line across the top of the corner posts using a #8 x 3/4” screw at each post. Stand the intermediate post(s) on the center mark(s). If any post is more than 1/8” taller than the string line, your deck has a hump. To compensate for this and keep the top rail level, you will need to cut the top of the post so that it is even with the bottom of the string line. If a post is altered, you will NOT use the Rail Clip Jig to install the rail clips. See “Install The Rail Clips” for more instructions f any post is more than 1/8” shorter than the string line, your deck has a sag. Sags can be compensated for either with trimming less of of the post(s) or by setting the fascia post(s) higher up on the fascia board.

NOTE: Any post that is 1/8” or less off of the string is considered to be within tolerance.

 

COMPENSATING FOR SLEEVES

Any posts that will receive a sleeve must be cut down 3/16” to compensate for the thickness of the sleeve material. Failure to do so may cause the sleeve to raise the top rail and give the rail a “wavy” look.

 

SET THE CORNER POSTS

The first step is to determine the mounting position for the post plates. Fascia posts are intentionally sent extra long to accommodate flashing on the deck fascia. The corner and intermediate posts will need to be cut to the proper length before attaching them to the deck.

36” System: Posts WITHOUT top rail sleeves must be cut to 34” above the deck surface (”X”). Posts WITH top rail sleeves must be cut to 33 7/8” above the deck surface (”X”).

42” System: Posts WITHOUT top rail sleeves must be cut to 40” above the deck surface (”X”). Posts WITH top rail sleeves must be cut to 39 7/8” above the deck surface (”X”).

Position your Outside / Inside Fascia post(s) so that the screws will fasten directly into solid fascia board. Make sure that the sticker and drain hole face the outside of your deck (NOTE: You may want to attach the rail clip(s) to the corner post(s) as described under “Install The Rail Clips”). Pre-drill deck using the 11/64” drill bit; use a 5/16” concrete bit for concrete surfaces. Use four (4) #14 x 3” screws for wood surfaces or four (4) #14 x 2” screws and nylon anchors for concrete surfaces. Check posts for plum and level. Shim with provided picket insert (if necessary).

 

POSITION THE INTERMEDIATE POSTS

To determine the placement of the intermediate post(s), measure from center to center of the two corner posts. Divide by the number of openings/panels listed on your Post Layout Drawing. The result will give you the spacing from center to center of the intermediate posts. Mark your deck accordingly and double-check that the spaces are of equal length.

 

INSTALL THE RAIL CLIPS

Use the Rail Clip Jig to install the rail clips on any unaltered post(s). The jig has a side for both 1 5/8” posts and 2 1/4” posts, so choose the side that aligns with the center of your post. Place the rail clip on top of the jig as illustrated; fasten to post using two (2) #10 x 1 1/2” self-tapping screws. To find proper clip placement, use the following rules:

Posts that DO NOT use a sleeve: 36” system - measure down 30 3/4” from the top of the post (as long as top of post is 34” above deck line). 42” system - measure down 36 3/4” from the top of the post (as long as top of post is 40” above deck line).

Posts that DO use a sleeve: 36” system - measure down 30 5/8” from the top of the post (as long as top of post is 33 7/8” above deck line). 42” system - measure down 36 5/8” from the top of the post (as long as top of post is 39 7/8” above deck line).

 

INSTALL THE INTERMEDIATE POSTS

Center the intermediate fascia post(s) on the mark(s). Pre-drill using the 11/64” drill bit (or 5/16” concrete bit for concrete surfaces). Use four (4) #14 x 3” screws for wood surfaces (or four (4) # 14 x 2” screws and nylon anchors for concrete surfaces). Check posts for plum and level; shim with provided picket insert if necessary.

 

INSTALL THE BOTTOM RAIL

Refer to the Post Layout Drawing to determine the railing length(s) to be used for each run. For a glass system, insert the shallow glass insert into the bottom rail and bring it flush to one end of the bottom rail before cutting. For a picket system, cut the bottom rail without the insert (it will be cut by hand and installed later). Measure between the posts to determine the length of each piece. Cut slowly through the railing with an electric mitre saw (this is a finished cut and will be exposed). Seat the bottom rail on the clips carefully as not to scratch the posts.

The recommended method for attaching the bottom rail to the clip is to drill through the center of the rail and the clip using the 5/32” drill bit. Fasten with one (1) #10 x 1 1/2 self- tapping screw. OR, you may drill through the side of the bottom rail at the lower line and through both sides of the clip using the 7/64” drill bit. Fasten with one (1) #8 x 3/4” screw.

 

INSTALL THE SUPPORT LEGS

Center the support leg under the bottom rail with the hole facing the outside of the deck. Pre-Drill with the 11/64” drill bit and fasten with three (3) #12 x 1 1/2” screw. Use the 7/64” drill bit to drill through the outside piece of the bottom rail (at lower line) and one side of the support leg. Secure with one (1) #8 x 3/4” screw.

 

INSTALL THE TOP RAIL, POST MOUNTS AND SLEEVES

Refer to your Post Layout Drawing and set all sleeves into their appointed posts. Place post mount plates on all remaining posts. Attach the post mount plates to the center holes of the post using two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws.

Refer to your Post Layout Drawing to determine the rail length(s) to be used for each run. To determine the top rail dimension between two corner posts, measure from the outside of one sleeve to the outside of the other. Subtract 1/4” weld allowance for each sleeve (1/2” total). Mitre cut the rail for extra strength.

To determine the measurement between a corner post and a center sleeve, measure from the outside of the corner sleeve to the middle of the center sleeve. Subtract 1/4” for weld allowance for the corner sleeve; mitre cut the corner end and straight cut the other end to fit tightly into the center sleeve.

Insert the top rail into the sleeves and over the top of the post mount plates (if applicable). Pre-drill and fasten each sleeve to the post(s) using the 7/64” drill bit and two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws. Pre-drill and fasten the top rail to the sleeve(s) using the 11/64” drill bit and two (2) #12 x 1 1/2” screws. Fasten top rail to post mount plates using two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws.

 

INSTALL THE WALL MOUNTS

Wall mounts should attach to the house into 2” of solid framing. If there is not adequate wall framing at your attachment point(s), add external blocking and make allowance before cutting your top and bottom rail.

Refer to the Post Layout Drawing to determine the stock rail length to be used. Measure from the wall to the outside of the corner sleeve (or the middle of the center sleeve) for your top rail dimension. Subtract 1/4” plate/weld allowance for wall mount and additional 1/4” weld allowance for corner sleeve (if applicable). Place top rail on post(s) to determine the position of the wall mount. Attach the top rail wall mount to wall with three (3) #12 x 1 1/2” screws (NOTE: If the deck is sloped, make sure top rail height is at least 36”).

Cut the bottom rail 1/8” smaller than your opening to compensate for the wall mount plate. Locate the center line of the bottom rail wall mount with either a level or a plum line down from the center of the top rail wall mount; mark accordingly.

Set one end of the bottom rail on the rail clip, and the other inside the bottom rail wall mount. Place the wall mount on the center line to determine the height to ensure the proper opening (as shown in the illustration). Install the bottom wall mount using two (2) #12 x 2” screws. Pre-drill at the lower line of the wall mount and through one side of the bottom rail using 7/64” drill bit; fasten with one (1) #8 x 3/4” screw. Fasten the other end of the bottom rail to the rail clip as previously explained in “Install The Bottom Rail.”

 

INSTALL THE PLASTIC INSERT

FOR GLASS APPLICATIONS: Measure the top rail opening(s) between each post attachment. Cut the plastic top rail insert (deeper channel) to size with tin snips. Push the insert into the top rail cavity. The bottom insert was previously installed in the section “Install the Bottom Rail”.

FOR PICKET APPLICATIONS: Measure the top rail opening(s) between each post attachment. Cut the clear plastic insert (deeper channel) to size with tin snips. Push the insert into the top rail cavity. Measure the bottom rail opening(s) between the posts, subtract an allowance for the screws that attach the bottom rail to the rail clip. Cut the clear plastic bottom rail insert (shallow channel) with tin snips. Push the insert into the bottom rail cavity.

 

ORDER THE GLASS

Glass is NOT delivered with the initial railing package. Why? Your railing system was estimated using the outside dimensions of your deck, but as you have learned there is usually an offset in your post placement. A small change in the post placement can make a big difference in the glass sizes that your openings will require. By waiting to deliver the glass until you determine the actual sizes of your daylight openings, we make sure that the glass you receive is right for your system the first time.

You should have been given the option of standard or custom width glass during the estimation process. Our standard glass panels of glass come in 3” width increments, from 27” to 72” wide for a 36” tall system and from 27” to 60” wide for a 42” tall system. Custom glass is more expensive and takes a little longer to receive, but the benefit is that the gaps between the glass and the posts will be uniform throughout your entire system.

Once your railing system is installed, determine the actual dimensions of your daylight opening(s) by measuring from post-to-post or post-to-wall. We recommend writing these dimensions on your Post Layout Drawing to correspond with each opening. For standard glass, subtract 5” from the daylight opening size (2 1/2” gaps on both sides of glass) and select the nearest standard size. Write the stock size on your Post Layout Drawing under each daylight opening dimension, and circle it so that you know it is the size of glass you ordered. This will aid you in placing the glass when it arrives.

For custom width glass, determine your gap size (between 2” and 3 1/2”). Double this number and subtract it from the daylight opening size for each panel. Write the actual size on your Post Layout Drawing under each daylight opening dimension, and circle it so that you know it is the size of glass you ordered.

Transfer the circled sizes to the Glass Request Form. Make sure that the total number of panels ordered correlates to the number of openings in your rail system. Complete the requested information at the top of the form and forward to either your dealer or Western ClearView Railing Systems directly.

Glass Request Form

 

INSTALL THE GLASS

Refer to your post layout drawing to determine the glass ordered for each opening. Mark the underside of the top rail for your gap size so you know where to set the edge of the glass panel. Use glass cleaner or warm water with dish soap on the top and bottom edges of the glass and / or glass insert to make installation easier. Gently push one corner of the glass into the top insert on your mark; continue to push the upper edge of the glass into the insert. Center the bottom edge of the glass over the bottom rail insert. Confirm that the glass is centered within the opening and slide glass into bottom rail. Repeat as necessary. Clean up the glass with glass cleaner.

NOTE: The use of a glass treatment product that causes water to bean and not let dirt stick to the panels (like on a car windshield) is recommended for easier routine cleaning.

 

INSTALL THE PICKETS

Measure the bottom rail between the posts to determine the length of the punched spacer; subtract 1/8” to allow spacer to slide down pickets without damaging the posts. Mark the spacer for cutting, making sure that the distance between the posts and the first hole of the punched spacer is equal on both ends. Cut two pieces of punched spacer the same dimension (one each for the top and bottom rail) with the mitre saw. Make additional cuts to the top rail spacer to allow for sleeves and / or post mounts. Invert and attach punched spacer to the top rail using a non-marking rubber mallet (note: you may want to use a 2x4 piece of wood on the edge of the spacer and pound the wood with the mallet to prevent damage to the spacer).

Align the holes of the bottom rail punched spacer to the top rail punched spacer; secure the two with string or plastic wrap from the packaging. Insert pickets into the punched spacer holes at the top and into the picket insert in the bottom rail. You may need to cut the pickets down 1/8” to accommodate them. Level each picket by eye as you go. When all pickets are installed, detach and slide the bottom rail spacer down to rest on the bottom rail. Secure with non-marking rubber mallet.

NOTE: you may also lay the spacers on the bottom rail and slide the top spacer up if easier.

GLASS RAILINGS

Choose from a variety of options from our glass railing solutions.
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PICKET RAILINGS

Choose from a variety of options from our picket system solutions.
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WELDED PICKET RAILINGS

Choose from a variety of options from our welded picket solutions.
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REPRESENTATIVE FINDER

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