TOOLS REQUIRED

• 10” Electric Miter Saw (40+ tooth carbide tipped blade)
• Electric Variable Speed Drill (suggested 500 Watt, 800-2000 RPM)
• 9 or 12 Volt Cordless Drill
• Channel Locks
• Concrete Drill Bit 5/16” (if applicable)
• Ear Protection
• Framing Square
• Hammer Drill (for concrete applications)
• Installation Kit (included in your package):
  • Drill Bits: 7/64”, 5/32”, and 11/64”
  • Square Drive Bits: #3 x 6” and #2 x 6”
• Level
• Rubber Mallet (non-marking)
• Pencil
• Power Cords
• 2 Quick Grip Clamps (for stair installation)
• Safety Glasses
• String Line
• Tape Measure

 

REVIEW THE POST LAYOUT DRAWING

You will receive a Post Layout Drawing with your package. It is your “blueprint” for installing your railing system. The drawing gives a bird’s-eye view of your deck as provided to our estimating department. It lists the dimension of each run, the posts to be used and their placement, any sleeves to be used and their angles, where glass panels and/or pickets are to be installed, and the location of any stairs and/or gates.

The Rail Usage Chart (located on the right side of the drawing) lists each actual run on your deck and the corresponding railing pieces provided to fit that run (top and bottom rail are provided in stock sizes and must be cut in the field to fit your specific application). To maximize usage, more than one cut may be made out of a single piece of provided rail. Refer to your Post Layout Drawing before cutting any top or bottom rail to ensure that you are using the product as estimated. Failure to do so may affect your ability to complete the project with the material provided.

 

CHECK MATERIALS

The fascia mount application uses a variety of specialized posts in order to be mounted on the outside of the deck. Please check your railing package carefully along with your Post Layout Drawing to ensure that you have all of the proper parts to complete your railing system.

View Parts

 

POST BLOCKING

Western ClearView Railing Systems require the post base screws to anchor into at least 3” of solid wood framing. Blocking is not provided with your system, but may be necessary to meet this requirement. Use the Post Layout Drawing to determine the location of the post bases; install blocking (if necessary) using two horizontal layers of 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 structural grade lumber between the joists. Attach the blocking to the joists with a minimum of 3-16d galvanized framing nails on both sides of the block.

 

DEALING WITH HUMPS OR SAGS

Attach a string line across the top of the corner posts using a #8 x 3/4” screw at each post. Stand the intermediate post(s) on the center mark(s). If any post is more than 1/8” taller than the string line, your deck has a hump. To compensate for this and keep the top rail level, you will need to cut the top of the post so that it is even with the bottom of the string line. If a post is altered, you will NOT use the Rail Clip Jig to install the rail clips. See “Install The Rail Clips” for more instructions f any post is more than 1/8” shorter than the string line, your deck has a sag. Sags can be compensated for either with trimming less of of the post(s) or by setting the fascia post(s) higher up on the fascia board.

NOTE: Any post that is 1/8” or less off of the string is considered to be within tolerance.

 

COMPENSATING FOR SLEEVES

Any posts that will receive a sleeve must be cut down 3/16” to compensate for the thickness of the sleeve material. Failure to do so may cause the sleeve to raise the top rail and give the rail a “wavy” look.

 

SETTING THE CORNER, END & CENTER SLEEVE POSTS

The first step is to determine the mounting position for the post plates. Fascia posts are intentionally sent extra long to accommodate flashing on the deck fascia. The corner and intermediate posts will need to be cut to the proper length before attaching them to the deck.

36” System: Posts WITHOUT top rail sleeves must be cut to 34” above the deck surface (”X”). Posts WITH top rail sleeves must be cut to 33 7/8” above the deck surface (”X”).

42” System: Posts WITHOUT top rail sleeves must be cut to 40” above the deck surface (”X”). Posts WITH top rail sleeves must be cut to 39 7/8” above the deck surface (”X”)

Position your Outside / Inside Fascia post(s) so that the screws will fasten directly into solid fascia board. Make sure that the sticker and drain hole face the outside of your deck. Pre-drill deck using the 11/64” drill bit; use a 5/16” concrete bit for concrete surfaces. Use four (4) #14 x 3” screws for wood surfaces or four (4) #14 x 2” screws and nylon anchors for concrete surfaces. Check posts for plum and level. Shim with provided picket insert (if necessary).

Next, set your end post(s) and / or posts that will use a center sleeve, if applicable (refer to your Post Layout Drawing). You may be using a wall mount at this point; if so, see the “Installing Wall Mount” section for more info. Pre-drill the deck as before and fasten the post(s) using four (4) #14 x 3” screws for wood decks or four (4) #14 x 2” screws with nylon anchors for concrete decks.

 

SETTING THE WELDED PICKET PANEL

Once your corner, end, and center posts have been set, center the panel with the posts. Check your Post Layout Drawing to see which welded picket panels are used for each run (you may need to cut a smaller panel out of a larger one depending on which section is being installed). Line up the pickets on each end of the panel(s) to be spaced equally in reference to the post(s).

NOTE: A wall mount may be used instead of a post. The top of the top rail wall mount should be set at 36 1/8” for 36” tall systems and 42 1/8” for 42” tall systems (see Installing Wall Mounts for more info). The wall edge would be used to space the pickets instead of the edge of the post in this case.

Once you have lined up the welded picket panel, mark the bottom rail 1/4” from edge of the post and mark the top rail at the center of the post. Cut welded picket panel as marked.

Next, you can set the sleeves on top of the posts. It is not recommended to attach the sleeves to the posts at this time. The welded picket panel may need to be cut again if intermediate posts are being used. You may, however, slide the top rail into the sleeves and hang it on top of the posts to keep it from getting damaged.

 

INTERMEDIATE POSTS

If you have intermediate posts, you must first determine where they are to be placed. Refer to the Post Layout Drawing to find out how many intermediate posts are used in each section of your deck. Measure between your outside posts (i.e. ends, corners and/or center sleeve posts) and divide accordingly based on how many intermediate posts are shown on the Post Layout Drawing. Line up intermediate post(s) with the picket nearest to the post location and mark 1” from center of post / picket on each side. Cut welded picket bottom rail accordingly.

 

REMOVING THE PICKET(S)

Next, you must remove the picket(s) that will be replaced by the post(s). Once the bottom rails have been marked and cut (see previous step), firmly grab the cut picket and swing it out of the panel until the weld gives and the picket is free.

(Some welds may be more difficult than others; repeat steps 1 & 2 until 3 occurs)

 

ATTACHING THE POST MOUNT PLATE(S)

Once all of the pickets have been removed to make space for the intermediate post(s), place the post mount plate(s). Attach to the center holes of the post using two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws.

After mounting all post mount plates to the top of the intermediate post(s), secure the post(s) to the deck surface by pre-drilling with the 11/64” drill bit (or 5/16” concrete bit for concrete surfaces). Use six (6) #14 x 3” screws for wood surfaces or six (6) #14 x 2” screws with nylon anchors for concrete surfaces.

 

FASTEN TOP RAIL TO SLEEVE(S) AND INTERMEDIATE POST(S)

Now that all of your support legs have been installed, you can fasten all of the top rail to any sleeves, wall mounts, or post mount plates that you may have. To attach sleeves to posts OR post mount plates to top rail, insert the top rail into the sleeve(s) or over the post mount plate(s), pre-drill using the 7/64” drill bit and two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws. To attach top rail to sleeves, pre-drill using the 11/64” drill bit and fasten with two (2) #12 x 1 1/2” screws.

 

SECURE WELDED PICKET BOTTOM WALL MOUNTS

The next step is to fasten the bottom rail to the post(s), or wall(s) as the case may be. This is done by pre- drilling with the 7/64” drill bit and attaching the welded picket bottom wall mount with two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws. To attach the bottom rail to the bottom wall mount, pre-drill with the 7/64” drill bit and fasten one (1) #8 x 3/4” screw down through the top of the wall mount into the bottom rail.

 

ATTACHING THE SUPPORT LEG(S)

The final step is to attach the welded picket fascia mount support leg(s). To do this, simply fit the support leg up into one of the pickets from the underside. One support leg should be placed between each run of welded picket (more than 2’ long) as close to the middle of the run as possible. Pre-drill with the 11/64” drill bit and attach to the fascia board with three (3) #12 x 1 1/2” screws. Pre-drill and attach bottom rail to support leg with one (1) #8 x 1/2” screw.