FOR GLASS APPLICATIONS: Measure the top rail opening(s) between each post attachment. Cut the plastic top rail insert (deeper channel) to size with tin snips. Push the insert into the top rail cavity. The bottom insert was previously installed in the section “Install the Bottom Rail”.

FOR PICKET APPLICATIONS: Measure the top rail opening(s) between each post attachment. Cut the clear plastic insert (deeper channel) to size with tin snips. Push the insert into the top rail cavity. Measure the bottom rail opening(s) between the posts, subtract an allowance for the screws that attach the bottom rail to the rail clip. Cut the clear plastic bottom rail insert (shallow channel) with tin snips. Push the insert into the bottom rail cavity.

 

ORDER THE GLASS

Glass is NOT delivered with the initial railing package. Why? Your railing system was estimated using the outside dimensions of your deck, but as you have learned there is usually an offset in your post placement. A small change in the post placement can make a big difference in the glass sizes that your openings will require. By waiting to deliver the glass until you determine the actual sizes of your daylight openings, we make sure that the glass you receive is right for your system the first time.

You should have been given the option of standard or custom width glass during the estimation process. Our standard glass panels of glass come in 3” width increments, from 27” to 72” wide for a 36” tall system and from 27” to 60” wide for a 42” tall system. Custom glass is more expensive and takes a little longer to receive, but the benefit is that the gaps between the glass and the posts will be uniform throughout your entire system.

Once your railing system is installed, determine the actual dimensions of your daylight opening(s) by measuring from post-to-post or post-to-wall. We recommend writing these dimensions on your Post Layout Drawing to correspond with each opening. For standard glass, subtract 5” from the daylight opening size (2 1/2” gaps on both sides of glass) and select the nearest standard size. Write the stock size on your Post Layout Drawing under each daylight opening dimension, and circle it so that you know it is the size of glass you ordered. This will aid you in placing the glass when it arrives.

For custom width glass, determine your gap size (between 2” and 3 1/2”). Double this number and subtract it from the daylight opening size for each panel. Write the actual size on your Post Layout Drawing under each daylight opening dimension, and circle it so that you know it is the size of glass you ordered.

Transfer the circled sizes to the Glass Request Form. Make sure that the total number of panels ordered correlates to the number of openings in your rail system. Complete the requested information at the top of the form and forward to either your dealer or Western ClearView Railing Systems directly.

Glass Request Form

 

INSTALL THE GLASS

Refer to your post layout drawing to determine the glass ordered for each opening. Mark the underside of the top rail for your gap size so you know where to set the edge of the glass panel. Use glass cleaner or warm water with dish soap on the top and

bottom edges of the glass and / or glass insert to make installation easier. Gently push one corner of the glass into the top insert on your mark; continue to push the upper edge of the glass into the insert. Center the bottom edge of the glass over the bottom rail insert. Confirm that the glass is centered within the opening and slide glass into bottom rail. Repeat as necessary. Clean up the glass with glass cleaner.

NOTE: The use of a glass treatment product that causes water to bean and not let dirt stick to the panels (like on a car windshield) is recommended for easier routine cleaning.

 

INSTALL THE PICKETS

Measure the bottom rail between the posts to determine the length of the punched spacer; subtract 1/8” to allow spacer to slide down pickets without damaging the posts. Mark the spacer for cutting, making sure that the distance between the posts and the first hole of the punched spacer is equal on both ends. Cut two pieces of punched spacer the same dimension (one each for the top and bottom rail) with the mitre saw. Make additional cuts to the top rail spacer to allow for sleeves and / or post mounts. Invert and attach punched spacer to the top rail using a non-marking rubber mallet (note: you may want to use a 2x4 piece of wood on the edge of the spacer and pound the wood with the mallet to prevent damage to the spacer).

Align the holes of the bottom rail punched spacer to the top rail punched spacer; secure the two with string or plastic wrap from the packaging. Insert pickets into the punched spacer holes at the top and into the picket insert in the bottom rail. You may need to cut the pickets down 1/8” to accommodate them. Level each picket by eye as you go. When all pickets are installed, detach and slide the bottom rail spacer down to rest on the bottom rail. Secure with non-marking rubber mallet.

NOTE: you may also lay the spacers on the bottom rail and slide the top spacer up if easier.

 

STAIRS FOR GLASS AND PICKET*

Please take the time to read and fully understand the following instructions before installing your stair railing.

 

POST PLACEMENT - SURFACE MOUNT APPLICATION

To determine the placement of your upper post(s), you first must decide where the intermediate post(s) will go so they align. Generally the two outside screw holes of the intermediate post(s) are positioned directly over the stair jack or riser to meet the blocking requirement (3” minimum). Set the appropriate sleeve into the upper post (this is generally a center to down or compound angle sleeve). Position your upper post(s) so that it aligns with the intermediate stair posts AND so that the transition point on the top of the sleeve is positioned directly over the first step. Cut 3 /16” sleeve allowance off the top post(s). Pre-drill using the 11/64” drill bit and fasten with four (4) #14 x 3” screws. Check the posts for plum and level; shim with provided picket insert if necessary.

NOTE: The intermediate and bottom stair posts will be sent out as 40” plain posts. They will be cut to size as explained in “Cut the Stair Posts”.

For most residential applications, the bottom post will be located on the tread of the bottom step, but the bottom post could also be located on the landing. Determine the best placement for your application; set the bottom post in line with the upper post. As always, be sure to have adequate blocking for the base plate screws. Pre-drill, fasten, check for plum and level, and shim if necessary.

Refer to the Post Layout Drawing to determine the number of intermediate posts (if any). Set the post(s) so that you maintain fairly equal spacing while also locating the post as far out on the individual tread as possible to still hit adequate blocking. Pre-drill, fasten, check for plum and level, and shim if necessary. NOTE: The maximum post- to-post dimension for a glass stair application is 5’; the maximum post- to-post dimension for a picket stair application is 6’. If your application exceeds these dimensions, you will need to order an additional intermediate post, stair rail clips, and stair post mount plate.

 

POST PLACEMENT - STINGER MOUNT APPLICATION

The stinger mount application is similar to the surface mount application, except that the posts attach to the top of the stair stinger instead of the treads. With allows for more equal post spacing between posts. The stringer plate is welded at the angle of the stringer (the angle provided during the estimation / order process).

Pre-drill using the 11/64” drill bit and fasten with the four (4) #14 x 3” screws. Check for plum and level as necessary.

 

POST PLACEMENT - FASCIA MOUNT APPLICATION

The fascia mount application is similar to the stringer and surface mount applications, except that the posts attach to the fascia (either the side of the stringer or the side of the steps themselves). This, typically, also allows for more equal spacing between the posts.

Pre-drill using the 11/64” drill bit and fasten with the four (4) #14 x 3” screws. Check for plum and level as necessary.

 

POST PLACEMENT - 2 1/4" POST APPLICATION

The 2 1/4” Transition Post is used when you need to change the top rail height at a single point. The railing does not run continuous over the top of this post; instead it terminates on the side(s) of the post with either a Stair Sleeve or Sleeve Cap.

Per the International Building Code (IBC), “Handrail height measured vertically from the sloped plane adjoining the tread nosing, or finish surface of ramp slope, shall not be less than 34 inches and not more than 38 inches.” The top rail height of each flight is measured from that flight’s tread nosing. The 2 1/4” Transition Post allows you to maintain the proper height for two flights on one post. This post acts as a newel post at the turn of your connecting stair flights.

Another reason for using the 2 1/4” Transition Post is at the top of a stair run where a 42” deck railing system meets a 36” stair system. A Sleeve Cap is used on the 42” side of the post, and a Stair Sleeve is used for the angled 36” side (see drawing). Stair sleeves and sleeve caps attach to the side of the 2 1/4” Transition Post with two (2) #12 x 1 1/2” screws (pre-drill using the 7/64” drill bit). The top rail attaches to the underside of the sleeve(s) with one (1) #12 x 1 1/2” screw.

The 2 1/4” Transition Post attaches by pre-drilling and attaching four (4) #14 x 3” screws at the transition point. The post is finished with a 2 1/4” Post Cap. To attach, tap with a non-marking rubber mallet (no screws are necessary).

 

CUT THE STAIR POSTS AND TOP RAIL

As previously explained, the intermediate and bottom post(s) are sent oversized. At this point, we need to determine the height and angle of the top rail in order to cut the post(s) correctly.

Select the top rail according the the Post Layout Drawing; this will be oversized as well to span the entire length of the stair run. Insert the top rail into the sleeve at the top of the stairs and run it adjacent to the post(s). Clamp the top rail to the side of the bottom post and adjust the height until the top of the rail is located at 36” above the nose of all the treads. Mark the intermediate and bottom post(s) along the the bottom of the top rail with a pencil (NOTE: Number the posts before removal so they are reinstalled in the same position). Mark the top rail for cutting to insure a 2 1/2” overhang past the bottom post. This cut will be 90 degrees to allow for proper installation of the end cap. Remove the top rail and the post(s). Cut the post(s) at the top of your marks with the mitre saw. Reattach in the proper location on the stairs. Cut the top rail with the mitre saw as marked.

 

ATTACH THE STAIR POST MOUNT PLATES, TOP RAIL, AND END CAP

Attach the stair post mount plate(s) to the top of the cut post(s) using two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws. Pre-drill and attach the top rail to the post(s) using three (3) #12 x 1 1/2” screws. Install the end cap to the cut end of the top rail with two (2) #7 x 1” screws.

 

POSITION THE BOTTOM RAIL

Select the bottom rail according to the Post Layout Drawing; this will be oversized as well to span the the entire length of the stair run. Clamp the bottom rail to the side of the top and bottom posts; position so that the bottom rail is parallel to the top rail AND that a 6” sphere can not pass under the bottom rail and tread face.

Using the upper line of the bottom rail as a reference, scribe a pencil line on the post as shown. This horizontal pencil line will mark the top of the stair rail clip. Make sure to mark both sides of the intermediate post(s), and just the appropriate side of the top and bottom post(s). Make vertical pencil lines on the bottom rail at the edges of the posts to determine where to cut the bottom rail (NOTE: Number the bottom rail pieces before removal and cutting so they are reinstalled in the proper location).

 

ATTACH STAIR RAIL CLIPS AND BOTTOM RAIL

Center the stair rail clip on the posts so the vertical pencil mark is at the top of the stair rail clip. Fasten to the post using two (2) #10 x 1 1/2” screws.

Use a mitre saw to cut the bottom rail on the vertical pencil lines. For glass applications, install the shallow glass insert into the bottom rail BEFORE cutting. For picket applications, cut the bottom rail without the insert installed.

Position the bottom rail over the stair clips and push down to fully seat the bottom rail. Pre-drill and attach one (1) #8 x 3/4” screw at the bottom line.

 

INSTALL THE PLASTIC INSERT

FOR GLASS APPLICATIONS: Measure the top rail opening(s) between each post attachment. Cut the plastic top rail insert (deeper channel) to size with tin snips. Push the insert into the top rail cavity.

FOR PICKET APPLICATIONS: Measure the top rail opening(s) between each post attachment. Cut the clear plastic top rail insert (deeper channel) to size with tin snips. Push the insert into the top rail cavity. Measure the bottom rail opening(s) between the posts. Cut the clear plastic bottom insert (shallower channel) with tin snips. Push the insert into the bottom rail cavity.

 

ORDER THE GLASS

Parallelogram stair glass is custom cut to your precise specifications. Follow the instructions on the Stair Glass Request Form to order. You must provide all six dimensions for each piece of glass (NOTE: The measurements must be accurate within 1/16”, otherwise the computer program will not recognize them as a complete shape and this will delay your order). Complete the requested information at the top of the form and forward to either your dealer or Western ClearView Railing Systems directly.

Stair glass takes 5-7 working days to fabricate and deliver.

Stair Glass Request Form

 

INSTALL THE GLASS

Select the appropriate piece of glass for each opening. Set the bottom of the glass on the bottom rail insert and lean the top edge of the glass up to the top rail to check the orientation of the glass. It may be necessary at this point to flip the glass left-to-right or top-to-bottom in order to orient the glass properly. You may want to use glass cleaner or dish soap on the top and bottom edges of the glass and/or glass insert to make installation easier. Once the glass is oriented properly, gently push the top corner of the glass into the top of the insert. Continue to push the the upper edge of of the glass until it is completely installed in the top insert. Center the bottom edge of the glass over the bottom rail insert; gently apply downward pressure until the glass rests inside the bottom of the insert. Confirm that the glass is centered within the opening; cut and install a piece of setting block material into the bottom rail insert on the lower side of the glass to keep it from sliding.

 

INSTALL THE PICKETS

Per the International Building Code (IBC), a 4” sphere cannot pass between the openings between the pickets and a 6” sphere cannot pass through a triangular opening formed by the riser, tread and bottom rail. Your specific application must meet these requirements, but is also affected by the angle (steepness or shallowness) of your stairs. To offer the most flexibility, stair pickets are purposely sent long in order to accommodate a variety of opening sizes. The picket spacer is also sent out at a specific size and may need to be cut to maintain the proper spacing. The following chart should be used to determine the length of your individual spacers.

NOTE: For safety, please cut all of your spacers as a bundle or snapped onto a piece of scrap bottom rail.

Leaving approximately a 4” space from the bottom post, insert the first picket with the angled end in the bottom rail. If necessary, cut the top of the picket to fit snugly into the top rail. Using this picket as a guide, determine the height for the remaining pickets in the stair run and make cuts if necessary. Reinstall the bottom picket with the open space between the picket and the post; check for plum and level. Snap a picket spacer on the top and bottom rail above the picket, and continue this process up the entire run. Once all the pickets are installed, add the length of the openings in the first and last position (between the picket and post). Divide the sum by 2 to get the length of the first and last spacers. Cut the spacers if necessary; remember to compensate for sleeves and stair post mount plates on the top rail. Slide the bottom picket as necessary to install the lower spacers. Install all of the top spacers.

NOTE: To assure full capture in the bottom rail, the bottom of all stair pickets MUST be cut at the appropriate angle (the angle specified by the degree of the stairs).

 

FASCIA MOUNT GLASS AND PICKET

TOOLS REQUIRED

• 10” Electric Miter Saw (40+ tooth carbide tipped blade)
• Electric Variable Speed Drill (suggested 500 Watt, 800-2000 RPM)
• 9 or 12 Volt Cordless Drill
• Channel Locks Concrete Drill Bit 5/16” (if applicable)
• Ear Protection
• Framing Square
• Hammer Drill (for concrete applications)
• Installation Kit (included in your package):
  • Drill Bits: 7/64”, 5/32”, and 11/64”
  • Square Drive Bits: #3 x 6” and #2 x 6”
  • Rail Clip Jig (rest of text on opposite side of page)
• Level
• Rubber Mallet (non-marking)
• Pencil
• Power Cords
• 2 Quick Grip Clamps (for stair installation)
• Safety Glasses
• String Line
• Tape Measure
• Tin Snips

 

REVIEW THE POST LAYOUT DRAWING

You will receive a Post Layout Drawing with your package. It is your “blueprint” for installing your railing system. The drawing gives a bird’s-eye view of your deck as provided to our estimating department. It lists the dimension of each run, the posts to be used and their placement, any sleeves to be used and their angles, where glass panels and/or pickets are to be installed, and the location of any stairs and/or gates.

The Rail Usage Chart (located on the right side of the drawing) lists each actual run on your deck and the corresponding railing pieces provided to fit that run (top and bottom rail are provided in stock sizes and must be cut in the field to fit your specific application). To maximize usage, more than one cut may be made out of a single piece of provided rail. Refer to your Post Layout Drawing before cutting any top or bottom rail to ensure that you are using the product as estimated. Failure to do so may affect your ability to complete the project with the material provided.

 

POST BLOCKING

Western ClearView Railing Systems require the post base screws to anchor into at least 3” of solid wood framing. Blocking is not provided with your system, but may be necessary to meet this requirement. Use the Post Layout Drawing to determine the location of the post bases; install blocking (if necessary) using two horizontal layers of 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 structural grade lumber between the joists. Attach the blocking to the joists with a minimum of 3-16d galvanized framing nails on both sides of the block.

 

CHECK MATERIALS

The fascia mount application uses a variety of specialized posts in order to be mounted on the outside of the deck. Please check your railing package carefully along with your Post Layout Drawing to ensure that you have all of the proper parts to complete your railing system.

View Parts

 

DEALING WITH HUMPS OR SAGS

Attach a string line across the top of the corner posts using a #8 x 3/4” screw at each post. Stand the intermediate post(s) on the center mark(s). If any post is more than 1/8” taller than the string line, your deck has a hump. To compensate for this and keep the top rail level, you will need to cut the top of the post so that it is even with the bottom of the string line. If a post is altered, you will NOT use the Rail Clip Jig to install the rail clips. See “Install The Rail Clips” for more instructions f any post is more than 1/8” shorter than the string line, your deck has a sag. Sags can be compensated for either with trimming less of of the post(s) or by setting the fascia post(s) higher up on the fascia board.

NOTE: Any post that is 1/8” or less off of the string is considered to be within tolerance.

 

COMPENSATING FOR SLEEVES

Any posts that will receive a sleeve must be cut down 3/16” to compensate for the thickness of the sleeve material. Failure to do so may cause the sleeve to raise the top rail and give the rail a “wavy” look.

 

SET THE CORNER POSTS

The first step is to determine the mounting position for the post plates. Fascia posts are intentionally sent extra long to accommodate flashing on the deck fascia. The corner and intermediate posts will need to be cut to the proper length before attaching them to the deck.

36” System: Posts WITHOUT top rail sleeves must be cut to 34” above the deck surface (”X”). Posts WITH top rail sleeves must be cut to 33 7/8” above the deck surface (”X”).

42” System: Posts WITHOUT top rail sleeves must be cut to 40” above the deck surface (”X”). Posts WITH top rail sleeves must be cut to 39 7/8” above the deck surface (”X”).

Position your Outside / Inside Fascia post(s) so that the screws will fasten directly into solid fascia board. Make sure that the sticker and drain hole face the outside of your deck (NOTE: You may want to attach the rail clip(s) to the corner post(s) as described under “Install The Rail Clips”). Pre-drill deck using the 11/64” drill bit; use a 5/16” concrete bit for concrete surfaces. Use four (4) #14 x 3” screws for wood surfaces or four (4) #14 x 2” screws and nylon anchors for concrete surfaces. Check posts for plum and level. Shim with provided picket insert (if necessary).

 

POSITION THE INTERMEDIATE POSTS

To determine the placement of the intermediate post(s), measure from center to center of the two corner posts. Divide by the number of openings/panels listed on your Post Layout Drawing. The result will give you the spacing from center to center of the intermediate posts. Mark your deck accordingly and double-check that the spaces are of equal length.

 

INSTALL THE RAIL CLIPS

Use the Rail Clip Jig to install the rail clips on any unaltered post(s). The jig has a side for both 1 5/8” posts and 2 1/4” posts, so choose the side that aligns with the center of your post. Place the rail clip on top of the jig as illustrated; fasten to post using two (2) #10 x 1 1/2” self-tapping screws. To find proper clip placement, use the following rules:

Posts that DO NOT use a sleeve: 36” system - measure down 30 3/4” from the top of the post (as long as top of post is 34” above deck line). 42” system - measure down 36 3/4” from the top of the post (as long as top of post is 40” above deck line).

Posts that DO use a sleeve: 36” system - measure down 30 5/8” from the top of the post (as long as top of post is 33 7/8” above deck line). 42” system - measure down 36 5/8” from the top of the post (as long as top of post is 39 7/8” above deck line).

 

INSTALL THE INTERMEDIATE POSTS

Center the intermediate fascia post(s) on the mark(s). Pre-drill using the 11/64” drill bit (or 5/16” concrete bit for concrete surfaces). Use four (4) #14 x 3” screws for wood surfaces (or four (4) # 14 x 2” screws and nylon anchors for concrete surfaces). Check posts for plum and level; shim with provided picket insert if necessary.

 

INSTALL THE BOTTOM RAIL

Refer to the Post Layout Drawing to determine the railing length(s) to be used for each run. For a glass system, insert the shallow glass insert into the bottom rail and bring it flush to one end of the bottom rail before cutting. For a picket system, cut the bottom rail without the insert (it will be cut by hand and installed later). Measure between the posts to determine the length of each piece. Cut slowly through the railing with an electric mitre saw (this is a finished cut and will be exposed). Seat the bottom rail on the clips carefully as not to scratch the posts.

The recommended method for attaching the bottom rail to the clip is to drill through the center of the rail and the clip using the 5/32” drill bit. Fasten with one (1) #10 x 1 1/2 self- tapping screw. OR, you may drill through the side of the bottom rail at the lower line and through both sides of the clip using the 7/64” drill bit. Fasten with one (1) #8 x 3/4” screw.

 

INSTALL THE SUPPORT LEGS

Center the support leg under the bottom rail with the hole facing the outside of the deck. Pre-Drill with the 11/64” drill bit and fasten with three (3) #12 x 1 1/2” screw. Use the 7/64” drill bit to drill through the outside piece of the bottom rail (at lower line) and one side of the support leg. Secure with one (1) #8 x 3/4” screw.

 

INSTALL THE TOP RAIL, POST MOUNTS AND SLEEVES

Refer to your Post Layout Drawing and set all sleeves into their appointed posts. Place post mount plates on all remaining posts. Attach the post mount plates to the center holes of the post using two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws.

Refer to your Post Layout Drawing to determine the rail length(s) to be used for each run. To determine the top rail dimension between two corner posts, measure from the outside of one sleeve to the outside of the other. Subtract 1/4” weld allowance for each sleeve (1/2” total). Mitre cut the rail for extra strength.

To determine the measurement between a corner post and a center sleeve, measure from the outside of the corner sleeve to the middle of the center sleeve. Subtract 1/4” for weld allowance for the corner sleeve; mitre cut the corner end and straight cut the other end to fit tightly into the center sleeve.

Insert the top rail into the sleeves and over the top of the post mount plates (if applicable). Pre-drill and fasten each sleeve to the post(s) using the 7/64” drill bit and two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws. Pre-drill and fasten the top rail to the sleeve(s) using the 11/64” drill bit and two (2) #12 x 1 1/2” screws. Fasten top rail to post mount plates using two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws.

 

INSTALL THE WALL MOUNTS

Wall mounts should attach to the house into 2” of solid framing. If there is not adequate wall framing at your attachment point(s), add external blocking and make allowance before cutting your top and bottom rail.

Refer to the Post Layout Drawing to determine the stock rail length to be used. Measure from the wall to the outside of the corner sleeve (or the middle of the center sleeve) for your top rail dimension. Subtract 1/4” plate/weld allowance for wall mount and additional 1/4” weld allowance for corner sleeve (if applicable). Place top rail on post(s) to determine the position of the wall mount. Attach the top rail wall mount to wall with three (3) #12 x 1 1/2” screws (NOTE: If the deck is sloped, make sure top rail height is at least 36”).

Cut the bottom rail 1/8” smaller than your opening to compensate for the wall mount plate. Locate the center line of the bottom rail wall mount with either a level or a plum line down from the center of the top rail wall mount; mark accordingly.

Set one end of the bottom rail on the rail clip, and the other inside the bottom rail wall mount. Place the wall mount on the center line to determine the height to ensure the proper opening (as shown in the illustration). Install the bottom wall mount using two (2) #12 x 2” screws. Pre-drill at the lower line of the wall mount and through one side of the bottom rail using 7/64” drill bit; fasten with one (1) #8 x 3/4” screw. Fasten the other end of the bottom rail to the rail clip as previously explained in “Install The Bottom Rail.”

 

INSTALL THE PLASTIC INSERT

FOR GLASS APPLICATIONS: Measure the top rail opening(s) between each post attachment. Cut the plastic top rail insert (deeper channel) to size with tin snips. Push the insert into the top rail cavity. The bottom insert was previously installed in the section “Install the Bottom Rail”.

FOR PICKET APPLICATIONS: Measure the top rail opening(s) between each post attachment. Cut the clear plastic insert (deeper channel) to size with tin snips. Push the insert into the top rail cavity. Measure the bottom rail opening(s) between the posts, subtract an allowance for the screws that attach the bottom rail to the rail clip. Cut the clear plastic bottom rail insert (shallow channel) with tin snips. Push the insert into the bottom rail cavity.

 

ORDER THE GLASS

Glass is NOT delivered with the initial railing package. Why? Your railing system was estimated using the outside dimensions of your deck, but as you have learned there is usually an offset in your post placement. A small change in the post placement can make a big difference in the glass sizes that your openings will require. By waiting to deliver the glass until you determine the actual sizes of your daylight openings, we make sure that the glass you receive is right for your system the first time.

You should have been given the option of standard or custom width glass during the estimation process. Our standard glass panels of glass come in 3” width increments, from 27” to 72” wide for a 36” tall system and from 27” to 60” wide for a 42” tall system. Custom glass is more expensive and takes a little longer to receive, but the benefit is that the gaps between the glass and the posts will be uniform throughout your entire system.

Once your railing system is installed, determine the actual dimensions of your daylight opening(s) by measuring from post-to-post or post-to-wall. We recommend writing these dimensions on your Post Layout Drawing to correspond with each opening. For standard glass, subtract 5” from the daylight opening size (2 1/2” gaps on both sides of glass) and select the nearest standard size. Write the stock size on your Post Layout Drawing under each daylight opening dimension, and circle it so that you know it is the size of glass you ordered. This will aid you in placing the glass when it arrives.

For custom width glass, determine your gap size (between 2” and 3 1/2”). Double this number and subtract it from the daylight opening size for each panel. Write the actual size on your Post Layout Drawing under each daylight opening dimension, and circle it so that you know it is the size of glass you ordered.

Transfer the circled sizes to the Glass Request Form. Make sure that the total number of panels ordered correlates to the number of openings in your rail system. Complete the requested information at the top of the form and forward to either your dealer or Western ClearView Railing Systems directly.

Glass Request Form

 

INSTALL THE GLASS

Refer to your post layout drawing to determine the glass ordered for each opening. Mark the underside of the top rail for your gap size so you know where to set the edge of the glass panel. Use glass cleaner or warm water with dish soap on the top and bottom edges of the glass and / or glass insert to make installation easier. Gently push one corner of the glass into the top insert on your mark; continue to push the upper edge of the glass into the insert. Center the bottom edge of the glass over the bottom rail insert. Confirm that the glass is centered within the opening and slide glass into bottom rail. Repeat as necessary. Clean up the glass with glass cleaner.

NOTE: The use of a glass treatment product that causes water to bean and not let dirt stick to the panels (like on a car windshield) is recommended for easier routine cleaning.

 

INSTALL THE PICKETS

Measure the bottom rail between the posts to determine the length of the punched spacer; subtract 1/8” to allow spacer to slide down pickets without damaging the posts. Mark the spacer for cutting, making sure that the distance between the posts and the first hole of the punched spacer is equal on both ends. Cut two pieces of punched spacer the same dimension (one each for the top and bottom rail) with the mitre saw. Make additional cuts to the top rail spacer to allow for sleeves and / or post mounts. Invert and attach punched spacer to the top rail using a non-marking rubber mallet (note: you may want to use a 2x4 piece of wood on the edge of the spacer and pound the wood with the mallet to prevent damage to the spacer).

Align the holes of the bottom rail punched spacer to the top rail punched spacer; secure the two with string or plastic wrap from the packaging. Insert pickets into the punched spacer holes at the top and into the picket insert in the bottom rail. You may need to cut the pickets down 1/8” to accommodate them. Level each picket by eye as you go. When all pickets are installed, detach and slide the bottom rail spacer down to rest on the bottom rail. Secure with non-marking rubber mallet.

NOTE: you may also lay the spacers on the bottom rail and slide the top spacer up if easier.

 

SURFACE MOUNT WELDED PICKET

TOOLS REQUIRED

• 10” Electric Mitre Saw (40+ tooth carbide tipped blade)
• Electric Variable Speed Drill (suggested 500 Watt, 800-2000 RPM)
• 9 or 12 Volt Cordless Drill
• Channel Locks
• Concrete Drill Bit 5/16” (if applicable)
• Ear Protection
• Framing Square
• Hammer Drill (for concrete applications)
• Installation Kit (included in your package):
  • Drill Bits: 7/64”, 5/32”, and 11/64”
  • Square Drive Bits: #3 x 6” and #2 x 6”
  • Level Rubber Mallet (non-marking)
• Pencil
• Power Cords
• 2 Quick Grip Clamps (for stair installation)
• Safety Glasses String Line Tape Measure

 

REVIEW THE POST LAYOUT DRAWING

You will receive a Post Layout Drawing with your package. It is your “blueprint” for installing your railing system. The drawing gives a bird’s-eye view of your deck as provided to our estimating department. It lists the dimension of each run, the posts to be used and their placement, any sleeves to be used and their angles, and the location of any stairs and/or gates.

The Rail Usage Chart (located on the right side of the drawing) lists each actual run on your deck and the corresponding railing pieces provided to fit that run (top and bottom rail are provided in stock sizes and must be cut in the field to fit your specific application). To maximize usage, more than one cut may be made out of a single piece of provided rail. Refer to your Post Layout Drawing before cutting any rail to ensure that you are using the product as estimated. Failure to do so may affect your ability to complete the project with the material provided.

 

CHECK MATERIALS

The long package(s) contain your top and bottom rail, pre-punched picket spacer and your glass and/or picket insert. Open the package carefully in order not to cut through the powder coating. Verify that the top and bottom rail sent match the usage chart on the Post Layout Drawing. Open the posts / parts box(es) and lay out the parts in their proper location on the deck. The basic posts and parts are illustrated in the parts section of this website.

View Parts

 

POST BLOCKING

Western ClearView Railing Systems require the post base screws to anchor into at least 3” of solid wood framing. Blocking is not provided with your system, but may be necessary to meet this requirement. Use the Post Layout Drawing to determine the location of the post bases; install blocking (if necessary) using two horizontal layers of 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 structural grade lumber between the joists. Attach the blocking to the joists with a minimum of 3-16d galvanized framing nails on both sides of the block.

 

DEALING WITH HUMPS OR SAGS

Attach a string line across the top of the corner posts using a #8 x 3/4” screw at each post. Stand the intermediate post(s) on the center mark(s). If any post is more than 1/8” taller than the string line, your deck has a hump. To compensate for this and keep the top rail level, you will need to cut the top of the post so that it is even with the bottom of the string line. If a post is altered, you will NOT use the Rail Clip Jig to install the rail clips. See “Install The Rail Clips” for more instructions.

If any post is more than 1/8” shorter than the string line, your deck has a sag. Sags can be compensated for either with taller post(s) or with a 1/4” post plate shim (maximum one per post). Please contact your dealer or Western ClearView Railing Systems directly if to need to compensate for a sag in your deck.

NOTE: Any post that is 1/8” or less off of the string is considered to be within tolerance

 

SETTING THE POSTS

Position your plain post(s) so that the outside screws will fasten directly into the rim joist. Make sure that the sticker and drain hole face the outside of your deck. Pre-drill deck using the 11/64” drill bit; use a 5/16” concrete bit for concrete surfaces. Use four (4) #14 x 3” screws for wood surfaces or four (4) #14 x 2” screws and nylon anchors for concrete surfaces. Check posts for plum and level. Shim with provided picket insert (if necessary).

In some cases, the corner posts will be at an angle other than 90 degrees. This usually calls for the post to split the angle . The post will not be in line with either side. This will allow the sleeve to fit properly and make the angle cut for the bottom rail more slight; thus easier to work with.

NOTE: A good way to check the placement of the post in these situations is to place the sleeve on top of the post prior to fastening it to the deck, then adjust the post and sleeve together until the sleeve meets the angle of the deck. This will show you how the post must be set. Most of the time, the post will spit the angle, but in some cases, the post is in line with one side or the other (if deck angle is acute or slightly obtuse).

Next, set your end posts (and center sleeve posts if applicable). Typically, these will be gusset posts (check your Post Layout Drawing for more info). Pre-drill the deck as before, but use six (6) #14 x 3” screws for wood surfaces or six (6) #14 x 2” screws and nylon anchors for concrete surfaces. NOTE: NO INTERMEDIATE POSTS SHOULD BE SET AT THIS TIME.

 

SETTING THE WELDED PICKET PANEL

Once your corner, end, and center posts have been set, center the panel with the posts. Check your Post Layout Drawing to see which welded picket panels are used for each run (you may need to cut a smaller panel out of a larger one depending on which section is being installed). Line up the pickets on each end of the panel(s) to be spaced equally in reference to the post(s).

NOTE: A wall mount may be used instead of a post. The top of the top rail wall mount should be set at 36 1/8” for 36” tall systems and 42 1/8” for 42” tall systems (see Installing Wall Mounts for more info). The wall edge would be used to space the pickets instead of the edge of the post in this case.

Once you have lined up the welded picket panel, mark the bottom rail 1/4” from edge of the post and mark the top rail at the center of the post. Cut welded picket panel as marked.

Next, you can set the sleeves on top of the posts. It is not recommended to attach the sleeves to the posts at this time. The welded picket panel may need to be cut again if intermediate posts are being used. You may, however, slide the top rail into the sleeves and hang it on top of the posts to keep it from getting damaged.

 

INTERMEDIATE POSTS

If you have intermediate posts, you must first determine where they are to be placed. Refer to the Post Layout Drawing to find out how many intermediate posts are used in each section of your deck. Measure between your outside posts (i.e. ends, corners and/or center sleeve posts) and divide accordingly based on how many intermediate posts are shown on the Post Layout Drawing. Line up intermediate post(s) with the picket nearest to the post location and mark 1” from center of post / picket on each side. Cut welded picket bottom rail accordingly.

 

REMOVING THE PICKET(S)

Next, you must remove the picket(s) that will be replaced by the post(s). Once the bottom rails have been marked and cut (see previous step), firmly grab the cut picket and swing it out of the panel until the weld gives and the picket is free.

(some welds may be more difficult than others; repeat steps 1 & 2 until 3 occurs)

 

ATTACHING THE POST MOUNT PLATE(S)

Once all of the pickets have been removed to make space for the intermediate post(s), place the post mount plate(s). Attach to the center holes of the post using two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws.

After mounting all post mount plates to the top of the intermediate post(s), secure the post(s) to the deck surface by pre-drilling with the 11/64” drill bit (or 5/16” concrete bit for concrete surfaces). Use six (6) #14 x 3” screws for wood surfaces or six (6) #14 x 2” screws with nylon anchors for concrete surfaces.

 

ATTACHING THE SUPPORT LEG(S)

At this time, it is recommended that you install the support legs. To do this, simply fit the support leg up into one of the pickets from the underside. One support leg should be placed between each run of welded picket (more than 2’ long) as close to the middle of the run as possible. Pre-drill with the 11/64” drill bit and attach to the deck surface with one (1) #12 x 1 1/2” screw. Also, pre-drill the bottom rail and use one (1) #8 x 3/4” screw to attach bottom rail to the support leg.

 

INSTALLING WALL MOUNT(S)

Wall mounts should attach into at least 2” of solid framing. if there is not adequate material at the attachment point(s), add external blocking and make allowance before cutting your top rail.

Fasten the top wall mount using three (3) #12 x 2” screws. For all 36” systems, the top of the wall mount should be at 36 1/8”, and for all 42” systems, the top of the wall mount should be at 42 1/8”

 

FASTEN TOP RAIL TO SLEEVE(S) AND INTERMEDIATE POST(S)

Now that all of your support legs have been installed, you can fasten all of the top rail to any sleeves, wall mounts, or post mount plates that you may have. To attach sleeves to posts OR post mount plates to top rail, insert the top rail into the sleeve(s) or over the post mount plate(s), pre-drill using the 7/64” drill bit and two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws. To attach top rail to sleeves, pre-drill using the 11/64” drill bit and fasten with two (2) #12 x 1 1/2” screws.

 

SECURE WELDED PICKET BOTTOM WALL MOUNTS

The final step is to fasten the bottom rail to the post(s), or wall(s) as the case may be. This is done by pre- drilling with the 7/64” drill bit and attaching the welded picket bottom wall mount with two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws. To attach the bottom rail to the bottom wall mount, pre-drill with the 7/64” drill bit and fasten one (1) #8 x 3/4” screw down through the top of the wall mount into the bottom rail.

 

STAIRS FOR WELDED PICKET

Please take the time to read and fully understand the following instructions before installing your stair railing.

 

POST PLACEMENT - SURFACE MOUNT APPLICATION

To determine the the placement of your upper post(s), you first must decide where the intermediate post(s) will go so they align. Generally the two outside screw holes of the intermediate post(s) are positioned directly over the stair jack or riser to meet the blocking requirement (3” minimum). Set the appropriate sleeve into the upper post (this is generally a center to down or compound angle sleeve). Position your upper post(s) so that it aligns with the intermediate stair posts AND so that the transition point on the top of the sleeve is positioned directly over the first step. Cut 3 /16” sleeve allowance off the top post(s). Pre-drill using the 11/64” drill bit and fasten with four (4) #14 x 3” screws. Check the posts for plum and level; shim with provided picket insert if necessary. INSTALL POSTS AT TOP AND BOTTOM OF STAIRS ONLY – NO INTERMEDIATE POSTS YET.

NOTE: The intermediate and bottom stair posts will be sent out as 40” plain posts. They will be cut to size as explained in “Cut the Stair Posts”.

For most residential applications, the bottom post will be located on the tread of the bottom step, but the bottom post could also be located on the landing. Determine the best placement for your application; set the bottom post in line with the upper post. As always, be sure to have adequate blocking for the base plate screws. Pre-drill, fasten, check for plum and level, and shim if necessary.

NOTE: You must adhere to the post spacing shown on your Post Layout Drawing. Failure to do so will exceed the engineering of the welded picket and put the warranty at risk. If there are any changes to the length of your stair run(s), you may need to contact the dealer to purchase more posts and / or stair rail.

 

POST PLACEMENT – STRINGER MOUNT APPLICATION

The stinger mount application is similar to the surface mount application, except that the posts attach to the top of the stair stinger instead of the treads. With allows for more equal post spacing between posts. The stringer plate is welded at the angle of the stringer (the angle provided during the estimation / order process).

Pre-drill using the 11/64” drill bit and fasten with the four (4) #14 x 3” screws. Check for plum and level as necessary.

 

POST PLACEMENT – FASCIA MOUNT APPLICATION

The fascia mount application is similar to the stringer and surface mount applications, except that the posts attach to the fascia (either the side of the stringer or the side of the steps themselves). This, typically, also allows for more equal spacing between the posts.

Pre-drill using the 11/64” drill bit and fasten with the four (4) #14 x 3” screws. Check for plum and level as necessary.

 

POST PLACEMENT - 2 1/4” POST APPLICATION

The 2 1/4” Transition Post is used when you need to change the top rail height at a single point. The railing does not run continuous over the top of this post; instead it terminates on the side(s) of the post with either a Stair Sleeve or Sleeve Cap.

Per the International Building Code (IBC), “Handrail height measured vertically from the sloped plane adjoining the tread nosing, or finish surface of ramp slope, shall not be less than 34 inches and not more than 38 inches.” The top rail height of each flight is measured from that flight’s tread nosing. The 2 1/4” Transition Post allows you to maintain the proper height for two flights on one post. This post acts as a newel post at the turn of your connecting stair flights.

Another reason for using the 2 1/4” Transition Post is at the top of a stair run where a 42” deck railing system meets a 36” stair system. A Sleeve Cap is used on the 42” side of the post, and a Stair Sleeve is used for the angled 36” side (see drawing). Stair sleeves and sleeve caps attach to the side of the 2 1/4” Transition Post with two (2) #12 x 1 1/2” screws (pre-drill using the 7/64” drill bit). The top rail attaches to the underside of the sleeve(s) with one (1) #12 x 1 1/2” screw.

The 2 1/4” Transition Post attaches by pre-drilling and attaching four (4) #14 x 3” screws at the transition point. The post is finished with a 2 1/4” Post Cap. To attach, tap with a non-marking rubber mallet (no screws are necessary).

 

SETTING STAIR POSTS & MOUNTING RAIL

In cases involving stairs, any stair posts are sent longer (40” typically). At this point, we need to determine the placement of the posts on the treads as well as where to cut the post in order to mount the top rail. The post(s) at the top of the stairs should already be placed. Now place the post(s) at the bottom of the stairs (usually on the last step of the stair run, but this is at the installer’s discretion).

NOTE: refer to your Post Layout Drawing to determine where posts may be placed. The post(s) at the end of the run may need to be placed on a landing and not the last stair in a run.

Once you’ve placed the post(s) at the bottom of the stairs, measure the welded picket panel so that the picket reveal is equal on both ends of the run.

At the top of the stairs, mark the bottom rail at 1/4” from the post and mark the top rail so that it will fit at least 1” into the sleeve. At the bottom of the stairs, mark the bottom rail 1/4” from the post and mark the top rail so that it will run past the last post. The length that the top rail runs past the last post is subject to installer’s discretion as well as limited by the amount of welded picket sent for a particular stair run.

Once all of the welded picket has been marked, cut panel and post(s) accordingly. You may now attach the bottom post(s) to the deck surface. Pre-drill with the 11/64” drill bit and fasten with four (4) #14 x 3” screws or four (4) #14 x 2” screws with nylon anchors.

 

ATTACH THE STAIR POST MOUNT PLATE AND END CAP

Attach the stair post mount plate to the top of the cut post(s) using two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws. Install the end cap to the top rail with two (2) #7 x 1” screws. NOTE: do not attach top rail to the stair post mount plate if there are any intermediate posts to be placed. If not, then you may attach it.

 

INTERMEDIATE STAIR POST

Now that the top stair post(s) and the bottom stair post(s) are set, you can determine the placement for any intermediate post(s). First, check the Post Layout Drawing to find out how many intermediate posts (if any) are required for the stairs. Divide the run equally by the number of intermediate posts and place them next to the closest stair picket. The intermediate post(s) will replace the picket(s). Next, mark the intermediate post (like the post at the bottom of the stairs), cut accordingly and affix the stair post mount plate(s). Mark the bottom rail 1” (diagonally) from the center of the post / picket to each side (see page 7 for more info). Once you’ve cut the bottom rail, remove the stair picket in the same manner as a standard picket (see page 8 for more info).

Now that all stair pickets have been removed to make room for the intermediate post(s), you may set the intermediate post(s) just like the posts at the top and bottom of the stairs.

At this time, you can attach all of your top rail into the sleeve(s) and to the intermediate post(s), if applicable. The stair post mount plate should already be attached to the cut post(s). Rest the top rail on the stair post mount plate, pre-drill using the 7/64” drill bit and fasten to the top rail with three (3) #12 x 1 1/2” screws.

 

FASTEN THE WELDED PICKET BOTTOM STAIR SLEEVES

The final step to installing your stair welded picket, is to attach the welded picket bottom stair sleeves to the post(s). This is done by pre-drilling with the 7/64” drill bit and attaching the welded picket bottom wall mount with two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws. To attach the bottom rail to the bottom wall mount, pre-drill with the 7/64” drill bit and fasten one (1) #8 x 3/4” screw down through the top of the wall mount into the bottom rail.

 

FASCIA MOUNT WELDED PICKET

TOOLS REQUIRED

• 10” Electric Miter Saw (40+ tooth carbide tipped blade)
• Electric Variable Speed Drill (suggested 500 Watt, 800-2000 RPM)
• 9 or 12 Volt Cordless Drill
• Channel Locks
• Concrete Drill Bit 5/16” (if applicable)
• Ear Protection
• Framing Square
• Hammer Drill (for concrete applications)
• Installation Kit (included in your package):
  • Drill Bits: 7/64”, 5/32”, and 11/64”
  • Square Drive Bits: #3 x 6” and #2 x 6”
• Level
• Rubber Mallet (non-marking)
• Pencil
• Power Cords
• 2 Quick Grip Clamps (for stair installation)
• Safety Glasses
• String Line
• Tape Measure

 

REVIEW THE POST LAYOUT DRAWING

You will receive a Post Layout Drawing with your package. It is your “blueprint” for installing your railing system. The drawing gives a bird’s-eye view of your deck as provided to our estimating department. It lists the dimension of each run, the posts to be used and their placement, any sleeves to be used and their angles, where glass panels and/or pickets are to be installed, and the location of any stairs and/or gates.

The Rail Usage Chart (located on the right side of the drawing) lists each actual run on your deck and the corresponding railing pieces provided to fit that run (top and bottom rail are provided in stock sizes and must be cut in the field to fit your specific application). To maximize usage, more than one cut may be made out of a single piece of provided rail. Refer to your Post Layout Drawing before cutting any top or bottom rail to ensure that you are using the product as estimated. Failure to do so may affect your ability to complete the project with the material provided.

 

CHECK MATERIALS

The fascia mount application uses a variety of specialized posts in order to be mounted on the outside of the deck. Please check your railing package carefully along with your Post Layout Drawing to ensure that you have all of the proper parts to complete your railing system.

View Parts

 

POST BLOCKING

Western ClearView Railing Systems require the post base screws to anchor into at least 3” of solid wood framing. Blocking is not provided with your system, but may be necessary to meet this requirement. Use the Post Layout Drawing to determine the location of the post bases; install blocking (if necessary) using two horizontal layers of 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 structural grade lumber between the joists. Attach the blocking to the joists with a minimum of 3-16d galvanized framing nails on both sides of the block.

 

DEALING WITH HUMPS OR SAGS

Attach a string line across the top of the corner posts using a #8 x 3/4” screw at each post. Stand the intermediate post(s) on the center mark(s). If any post is more than 1/8” taller than the string line, your deck has a hump. To compensate for this and keep the top rail level, you will need to cut the top of the post so that it is even with the bottom of the string line. If a post is altered, you will NOT use the Rail Clip Jig to install the rail clips. See “Install The Rail Clips” for more instructions f any post is more than 1/8” shorter than the string line, your deck has a sag. Sags can be compensated for either with trimming less of of the post(s) or by setting the fascia post(s) higher up on the fascia board.

NOTE: Any post that is 1/8” or less off of the string is considered to be within tolerance.

 

COMPENSATING FOR SLEEVES

Any posts that will receive a sleeve must be cut down 3/16” to compensate for the thickness of the sleeve material. Failure to do so may cause the sleeve to raise the top rail and give the rail a “wavy” look.

 

SETTING THE CORNER, END & CENTER SLEEVE POSTS

The first step is to determine the mounting position for the post plates. Fascia posts are intentionally sent extra long to accommodate flashing on the deck fascia. The corner and intermediate posts will need to be cut to the proper length before attaching them to the deck.

36” System: Posts WITHOUT top rail sleeves must be cut to 34” above the deck surface (”X”). Posts WITH top rail sleeves must be cut to 33 7/8” above the deck surface (”X”).

42” System: Posts WITHOUT top rail sleeves must be cut to 40” above the deck surface (”X”). Posts WITH top rail sleeves must be cut to 39 7/8” above the deck surface (”X”)

Position your Outside / Inside Fascia post(s) so that the screws will fasten directly into solid fascia board. Make sure that the sticker and drain hole face the outside of your deck. Pre-drill deck using the 11/64” drill bit; use a 5/16” concrete bit for concrete surfaces. Use four (4) #14 x 3” screws for wood surfaces or four (4) #14 x 2” screws and nylon anchors for concrete surfaces. Check posts for plum and level. Shim with provided picket insert (if necessary).

Next, set your end post(s) and / or posts that will use a center sleeve, if applicable (refer to your Post Layout Drawing). You may be using a wall mount at this point; if so, see the “Installing Wall Mount” section for more info. Pre-drill the deck as before and fasten the post(s) using four (4) #14 x 3” screws for wood decks or four (4) #14 x 2” screws with nylon anchors for concrete decks.

 

SETTING THE WELDED PICKET PANEL

Once your corner, end, and center posts have been set, center the panel with the posts. Check your Post Layout Drawing to see which welded picket panels are used for each run (you may need to cut a smaller panel out of a larger one depending on which section is being installed). Line up the pickets on each end of the panel(s) to be spaced equally in reference to the post(s).

NOTE: A wall mount may be used instead of a post. The top of the top rail wall mount should be set at 36 1/8” for 36” tall systems and 42 1/8” for 42” tall systems (see Installing Wall Mounts for more info). The wall edge would be used to space the pickets instead of the edge of the post in this case.

Once you have lined up the welded picket panel, mark the bottom rail 1/4” from edge of the post and mark the top rail at the center of the post. Cut welded picket panel as marked.

Next, you can set the sleeves on top of the posts. It is not recommended to attach the sleeves to the posts at this time. The welded picket panel may need to be cut again if intermediate posts are being used. You may, however, slide the top rail into the sleeves and hang it on top of the posts to keep it from getting damaged.

 

INTERMEDIATE POSTS

If you have intermediate posts, you must first determine where they are to be placed. Refer to the Post Layout Drawing to find out how many intermediate posts are used in each section of your deck. Measure between your outside posts (i.e. ends, corners and/or center sleeve posts) and divide accordingly based on how many intermediate posts are shown on the Post Layout Drawing. Line up intermediate post(s) with the picket nearest to the post location and mark 1” from center of post / picket on each side. Cut welded picket bottom rail accordingly.

 

REMOVING THE PICKET(S)

Next, you must remove the picket(s) that will be replaced by the post(s). Once the bottom rails have been marked and cut (see previous step), firmly grab the cut picket and swing it out of the panel until the weld gives and the picket is free.

(some welds may be more difficult than others; repeat steps 1 & 2 until 3 occurs)

 

ATTACHING THE POST MOUNT PLATE(S)

Once all of the pickets have been removed to make space for the intermediate post(s), place the post mount plate(s). Attach to the center holes of the post using two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws.

After mounting all post mount plates to the top of the intermediate post(s), secure the post(s) to the deck surface by pre-drilling with the 11/64” drill bit (or 5/16” concrete bit for concrete surfaces). Use six (6) #14 x 3” screws for wood surfaces or six (6) #14 x 2” screws with nylon anchors for concrete surfaces.

 

FASTEN TOP RAIL TO SLEEVE(S) AND INTERMEDIATE POST(S)

Now that all of your support legs have been installed, you can fasten all of the top rail to any sleeves, wall mounts, or post mount plates that you may have. To attach sleeves to posts OR post mount plates to top rail, insert the top rail into the sleeve(s) or over the post mount plate(s), pre-drill using the 7/64” drill bit and two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws. To attach top rail to sleeves, pre-drill using the 11/64” drill bit and fasten with two (2) #12 x 1 1/2” screws.

 

SECURE WELDED PICKET BOTTOM WALL MOUNTS

The next step is to fasten the bottom rail to the post(s), or wall(s) as the case may be. This is done by pre- drilling with the 7/64” drill bit and attaching the welded picket bottom wall mount with two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws. To attach the bottom rail to the bottom wall mount, pre-drill with the 7/64” drill bit and fasten one (1) #8 x 3/4” screw down through the top of the wall mount into the bottom rail.

 

ATTACHING THE SUPPORT LEG(S)

The final step is to attach the welded picket fascia mount support leg(s). To do this, simply fit the support leg up into one of the pickets from the underside. One support leg should be placed between each run of welded picket (more than 2’ long) as close to the middle of the run as possible. Pre-drill with the 11/64” drill bit and attach to the fascia board with three (3) #12 x 1 1/2” screws. Pre-drill and attach bottom rail to support leg with one (1) #8 x 3/4” screw.