TOOLS REQUIRED

• 10” Electric Mitre Saw (40+ tooth carbide tipped blade)
• Electric Variable Speed Drill (suggested 500 Watt, 800-2000 RPM)
• 9 or 12 Volt Cordless Drill
• Channel Locks
• Concrete Drill Bit 5/16” (if applicable)
• Ear Protection
• Framing Square
• Hammer Drill (for concrete applications)
• Installation Kit (included in your package):
  • Drill Bits: 7/64”, 5/32”, and 11/64”
  • Square Drive Bits: #3 x 6” and #2 x 6”
  • Level Rubber Mallet (non-marking)
• Pencil
• Power Cords
• 2 Quick Grip Clamps (for stair installation)
• Safety Glasses String Line Tape Measure

 

REVIEW THE POST LAYOUT DRAWING

You will receive a Post Layout Drawing with your package. It is your “blueprint” for installing your railing system. The drawing gives a bird’s-eye view of your deck as provided to our estimating department. It lists the dimension of each run, the posts to be used and their placement, any sleeves to be used and their angles, and the location of any stairs and/or gates.

The Rail Usage Chart (located on the right side of the drawing) lists each actual run on your deck and the corresponding railing pieces provided to fit that run (top and bottom rail are provided in stock sizes and must be cut in the field to fit your specific application). To maximize usage, more than one cut may be made out of a single piece of provided rail. Refer to your Post Layout Drawing before cutting any rail to ensure that you are using the product as estimated. Failure to do so may affect your ability to complete the project with the material provided.

 

CHECK MATERIALS

The long package(s) contain your top and bottom rail, pre-punched picket spacer and your glass and/or picket insert. Open the package carefully in order not to cut through the powder coating. Verify that the top and bottom rail sent match the usage chart on the Post Layout Drawing. Open the posts / parts box(es) and lay out the parts in their proper location on the deck. The basic posts and parts are illustrated in the parts section of this website.

View Parts

 

POST BLOCKING

Western ClearView Railing Systems require the post base screws to anchor into at least 3” of solid wood framing. Blocking is not provided with your system, but may be necessary to meet this requirement. Use the Post Layout Drawing to determine the location of the post bases; install blocking (if necessary) using two horizontal layers of 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 structural grade lumber between the joists. Attach the blocking to the joists with a minimum of 3-16d galvanized framing nails on both sides of the block.

 

DEALING WITH HUMPS OR SAGS

Attach a string line across the top of the corner posts using a #8 x 3/4” screw at each post. Stand the intermediate post(s) on the center mark(s). If any post is more than 1/8” taller than the string line, your deck has a hump. To compensate for this and keep the top rail level, you will need to cut the top of the post so that it is even with the bottom of the string line. If a post is altered, you will NOT use the Rail Clip Jig to install the rail clips. See “Install The Rail Clips” for more instructions.

If any post is more than 1/8” shorter than the string line, your deck has a sag. Sags can be compensated for either with taller post(s) or with a 1/4” post plate shim (maximum one per post). Please contact your dealer or Western ClearView Railing Systems directly if to need to compensate for a sag in your deck.

NOTE: Any post that is 1/8” or less off of the string is considered to be within tolerance

 

SETTING THE POSTS

Position your plain post(s) so that the outside screws will fasten directly into the rim joist. Make sure that the sticker and drain hole face the outside of your deck. Pre-drill deck using the 11/64” drill bit; use a 5/16” concrete bit for concrete surfaces. Use four (4) #14 x 3” screws for wood surfaces or four (4) #14 x 2” screws and nylon anchors for concrete surfaces. Check posts for plum and level. Shim with provided picket insert (if necessary).

In some cases, the corner posts will be at an angle other than 90 degrees. This usually calls for the post to split the angle . The post will not be in line with either side. This will allow the sleeve to fit properly and make the angle cut for the bottom rail more slight; thus easier to work with.

NOTE: A good way to check the placement of the post in these situations is to place the sleeve on top of the post prior to fastening it to the deck, then adjust the post and sleeve together until the sleeve meets the angle of the deck. This will show you how the post must be set. Most of the time, the post will spit the angle, but in some cases, the post is in line with one side or the other (if deck angle is acute or slightly obtuse).

Next, set your end posts (and center sleeve posts if applicable). Typically, these will be gusset posts (check your Post Layout Drawing for more info). Pre-drill the deck as before, but use six (6) #14 x 3” screws for wood surfaces or six (6) #14 x 2” screws and nylon anchors for concrete surfaces. NOTE: NO INTERMEDIATE POSTS SHOULD BE SET AT THIS TIME.

 

SETTING THE WELDED PICKET PANEL

Once your corner, end, and center posts have been set, center the panel with the posts. Check your Post Layout Drawing to see which welded picket panels are used for each run (you may need to cut a smaller panel out of a larger one depending on which section is being installed). Line up the pickets on each end of the panel(s) to be spaced equally in reference to the post(s).

NOTE: A wall mount may be used instead of a post. The top of the top rail wall mount should be set at 36 1/8” for 36” tall systems and 42 1/8” for 42” tall systems (see Installing Wall Mounts for more info). The wall edge would be used to space the pickets instead of the edge of the post in this case.

Once you have lined up the welded picket panel, mark the bottom rail 1/4” from edge of the post and mark the top rail at the center of the post. Cut welded picket panel as marked.

Next, you can set the sleeves on top of the posts. It is not recommended to attach the sleeves to the posts at this time. The welded picket panel may need to be cut again if intermediate posts are being used. You may, however, slide the top rail into the sleeves and hang it on top of the posts to keep it from getting damaged.

 

INTERMEDIATE POSTS

If you have intermediate posts, you must first determine where they are to be placed. Refer to the Post Layout Drawing to find out how many intermediate posts are used in each section of your deck. Measure between your outside posts (i.e. ends, corners and/or center sleeve posts) and divide accordingly based on how many intermediate posts are shown on the Post Layout Drawing. Line up intermediate post(s) with the picket nearest to the post location and mark 1” from center of post / picket on each side. Cut welded picket bottom rail accordingly.

 

REMOVING THE PICKET(S)

Next, you must remove the picket(s) that will be replaced by the post(s). Once the bottom rails have been marked and cut (see previous step), firmly grab the cut picket and swing it out of the panel until the weld gives and the picket is free.

(Some welds may be more difficult than others; repeat steps 1 & 2 until 3 occurs)

 

ATTACHING THE POST MOUNT PLATE(S)

Once all of the pickets have been removed to make space for the intermediate post(s), place the post mount plate(s). Attach to the center holes of the post using two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws.

After mounting all post mount plates to the top of the intermediate post(s), secure the post(s) to the deck surface by pre-drilling with the 11/64” drill bit (or 5/16” concrete bit for concrete surfaces). Use six (6) #14 x 3” screws for wood surfaces or six (6) #14 x 2” screws with nylon anchors for concrete surfaces.

 

ATTACHING THE SUPPORT LEG(S)

At this time, it is recommended that you install the support legs. To do this, simply fit the support leg up into one of the pickets from the underside. One support leg should be placed between each run of welded picket (more than 2’ long) as close to the middle of the run as possible. Pre-drill with the 11/64” drill bit and attach to the deck surface with one (1) #12 x 1 1/2” screw. Also, pre-drill the bottom rail and use one (1) #8 x 1/2” screw to attach bottom rail to the support leg.

 

INSTALLING WALL MOUNT(S)

Wall mounts should attach into at least 2” of solid framing. if there is not adequate material at the attachment point(s), add external blocking and make allowance before cutting your top rail.

Fasten the top wall mount using three (3) #12 x 2” screws. For all 36” systems, the top of the wall mount should be at 36 1/8”, and for all 42” systems, the top of the wall mount should be at 42 1/8”

 

FASTEN TOP RAIL TO SLEEVE(S) AND INTERMEDIATE POST(S)

Now that all of your support legs have been installed, you can fasten all of the top rail to any sleeves, wall mounts, or post mount plates that you may have. To attach sleeves to posts OR post mount plates to top rail, insert the top rail into the sleeve(s) or over the post mount plate(s), pre-drill using the 7/64” drill bit and two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws. To attach top rail to sleeves, pre-drill using the 11/64” drill bit and fasten with two (2) #12 x 1 1/2” screws.

 

SECURE WELDED PICKET BOTTOM WALL MOUNTS

The final step is to fasten the bottom rail to the post(s), or wall(s) as the case may be. This is done by pre- drilling with the 7/64” drill bit and attaching the welded picket bottom wall mount with two (2) #8 x 3/4” screws. To attach the bottom rail to the bottom wall mount, pre-drill with the 7/64” drill bit and fasten one (1) #8 x 3/4” screw down through the top of the wall mount into the bottom rail.